Who Put The Port In Portugal?

School holidays once more and the question arose...where to head for one of my last big European breaks?

My mate Nathan came to the rescue, finding, bartering and then booking some last minute flights and accomodation in Portugal for us both. Really it was a last ditch effort for us to search of some final sunshine before the miserable winter hits London. The plan was to soak up the sun, and the local atmosphere of Porto for three days with Nath, then split ways so he can return to work while I go and explore the busy capital of Lisbon solo for another three days. Making the most of time off, we flew into Porto late on Thursday night, that way we had all of Friday to enjoy the sites, sounds and tastes of Porto.

Friday we took a random walking penny tour of Porto. We walked to Rotunda da Boa Vista, then ambled our way down to the river front to the Ribeira district. From here we crossed the 'Ponte da D Luis I' bridge (created by a student who helped Eiffel complete the Parisian icon! similarities are clear between two structures!) to check out the port wine suppliers. Obviously its this trade that gives Porto its name, and this trade that helped forge the name Portugal. But you would have guessed that right!?

As we wandered we found a family company (Vasconcello) that was only too happy to give us a tour of their port supplies, and even a few tasters! Sadly they just store the port so I was not able to see the stages of production and thus crush the grapes by foot (those who know me, know this is a life long aim of mine! Blame it on soppy girlie movies!) so Ill just have to come back and do that another time! Not a red wine drinker I wasn't quite convinced Id be a fan of the ole Port I took a few tentative sips, but found I had quite a liking for the stuff. Nathan and I both walked out with a bottle under our wings, not a bad days work for the guys selling the stuff! Two suckers born every minute! But for the price, it was an absolute steal!

Saturday was our designated 'act like a tourist' day. We boarded a citysightseeing bus (you know the big open topped tourist bus, where you listen to commentry via headsets?) Its a jump on jump off kind of affair, but we took the lazy route and stayed onboard for the two loops to hear our options and then choose our own path the second time. It was actually a great way to see the city, pitty we didnt do it the day prior as we found lots of great things to see and do. Not only did we get some amazing city views from a lookout on the Vila Nova de Gaia side, but we also spotted an awesome boardwalk. It stretched from an old fort (Forte de sao Franscisco Xavier) ending with lovers lane, a lovely little gazibo type walkway. Very romantic, pitty it was shared with only Nathan! ha ha!

From here we rushed our way back to near our hotel to visit Casa da Musica, a wonderfully quirky public music hall. Designed by a wacky Dutch architect, the building uses all industrial materials, glass/cork/concrete/foam/aluminium etc to create its acoustic and visual effects. Add to this that there are very few right angles in the design of the place and you begin to see why its such a cool place to visit! We had an hour tour, and were surprised at every corner. Our guide was very passionate, some could suggest a little too passionate at times! Great to see someone who loves their job! We would have loved to watch a show performed there, but time just ran right out!

That night we raced into town to do a boat tour of the 6 bridges of the area. Alas our advertisment was incorrect and we missed the final tour by 15mins (bugger) so instead we sat by the waterfront drinking jars of sangria and superbock (beer). We dined at a restaurant at the front, unfortunatly the waiter talked me out of the local speciality (tripe!) by telling me it would be too filling for dinner, so with Portuguese style lamb we feasted ourselves before heading into the local Irish pub to watch the Rugby final with the South Africans slaughtering the English.

Here is where the entertainment of the night began! We met some new friends at the bar, drank some sangria, learned some new portuguese words, drank some more sangria, played around with random word quizzes, drank even more sangria... Can you picture what happens next? The night came to an end after I decided to run outside onto the street and share my love of Sangria with the pathway! Talk about painting the town red! Though my selection was far more colourful! Disgraceful on its own but did I mention it was in front of a famous historic monument! Oops! Mortified as I was, Nathan was on hand to, no, not hold back my hair, but to laugh and take pictures! Oh what a true friend! (Great funny pics though!!) All happy days till I woke the following day, still fully clothed, mouth like Id been licking a kitty litter tray and with a hangover to rival all hangovers! In short, it will sadly be a while before Kellie touches sangria again!

Feeling very precious on Sunday, we both took our morning easy, and since most things were closed this was pretty easy. By lunch I said my farewells to Nathan at the metro station as he headed off to the airport and home, and I headed to the train station with the destination Lisbon in mind.

Lisbon allowed me to realise just how much I prefer the little towns to the big city. The city itself is not so bad, but I was reminded of the need to watch who was around and If one more horny little local hissed at me as I walked past I would have pummeled them! Still putting all this aside I managed to do my own wirlwind tour of the town, taking in the sites as mentioned in the lonely planet and other tourist maps.

From the Rossio plaza to Praca do Comercio, out to Santos district to the Mercado ola Riveria. From here I wandered up to Alfama district to walk the outskirts of the castle walls and browse the little hidden shops along the way. Around lunch I headed up the vertical funicular (elevator) in the center of town for a good 360degree view of town. Lastly I headed out to Parque Eduardo VII (a park) and back past the Bairro Alto district. By the end of the day and 4hrs solid walking, I had really tired and sore feet and that didnt look to improve any with the following days plan to visit castles and palaces in the nearby town of Sintra. As one soon learns when travelling, castles are always up high!! Damn protection, think about the tourists in later years!

Sintra was just as I was told it would be, a must see, quaint little town steeped in history and with scenery to die for. I decided to work my way logically through the town, Up to down. First I had to get up, and as I hinted at earlier it was a mighty steep climb! (and all for the sake of saving perhaps 1euro bus fare!) I thus started my sightseeing at Palacio Nacional da Pena (aka; to us non Portuguese, Pena National Palace) apparently a great example of Portuguese romantic architecture, but more interestingly for me the old home of Kings, Queens and before that a convent for Friars. Now talk about quirky, each room had what seemed a different style and or theme and rarely any of them meshed with the next, and I wont even go into the colour schemes of the outside!! Speaks for itself really. But the views were simply amazing (but at that incline, they would wanna be!)

Just below the Palace was the rebuilt remains of the Castelo dos Mouros (aka; Moorish Castle) built originally by the Arabs in the 8th Century. Here I was able to take in more wonderful views of the valley below as I walked the walled remains of the castle. Also there was a church and graveyard to take in, just adding to the culture!

By the completion of both these attractions and after climing who knows how many steps I was knackered, so decided homewards was the best direction for me. I headed back to the town of Sintra and boarded my train back to Lisbon to relax, well as much as possible in the big city.