Kolkata travel review & recommendations by Father_Son_Cycle

KOLKATA - West Bengal, India

Introduction

Kolkata used to be called Calcutta. Many of the cities in India have had their names changed to better reflect the Indian pronunciation rather than the British Colonial names. However, as with other cities in India, many Indians (especially locals) still call it Calcutta. This is the same in Mumbai (Bombay), Kochi (Cochin), Varanasi (Banares), Chenai (Madras) and many others.

My son Sam (19) and I (50) are cycling from Ireland to Japan and have spent nearly 3 months in India. This is longer than necessary but is a measure of how much we have enjoyed it. Kolkata is our final destination in India. Blog: www.bugbitten.com/father_son_cycle

So why go to Kolkata?

Kolkata is full of character. It is Indian but uniquely Kolkatan. Like many Indian cities it is a place of contrasts and contradictions. There is devastating poverty (I will not sicken you or demean the individuals with photos of street sleepers) which at times can be shocking. On the other hand there are plush hotels, department stores and beautiful old (Colonial) buildings. It is a city with a great history. Every day you will pass plaques on buildings saying that this or that famous person was born there -  William Makepeace Thackaray just along from our hostel. There are great restaurants and the people are friendly.

Where should you stay?

Kolkata seems packed with places to stay at all levels. We as long distance cyclists tend to go for budget hostels that are as clean as India allows and convenient, but every so often we go for a bit of luxury when we feel in need. Most people stay around the centre, close to Park Street and the Indian Museum area.

Budget

Many backpakers in the know used to stay at the Red Sheild (Salvation Army Guest House in Sudder Street, but this has recently been demolished - maybe for rebuilding).

Continental Guest House
Near corner of Mirza Ghalib Street and Sudder Street
Friendly, basic but fairly clean and very convenient. 350Rp for a double room with private bathroom (250 communal bathroom).
Several other good places within same building so don't worry if not booked.

Hotel Maria
A few doors down Sudder street from Continental GH. This is a very popular place as it has its own courtyard. Prices similar to Continental.

There are many other budget places in this street, plus in Mirza Ghalib and Marquis Street etc nearby.

Mid Range

VIP Hotel
Mirza Ghalib Street near to corner of Marquis Street.
This seems very popular and clean. It is very convenient for the centre, restaurants etc. Rates vary but expect to pay around 3000Rp for a double.

Lytton Hotel
14 Sudder Street (close to side of Indian Museum).
Pretty comfy with good buffet breakfast (open to non-residents at 250Rp). Double room 4900Rp. 2 Restaurants and a nice bar.

Where should you eat?

Kolkata is bursting with eateries. The street food is great but can be a little oily for an every-day diet. Aloo Wada (potato fritters) are excellent and only around 3Rp.
Particular recommendations are:

Hong Kong - Budget Chinese restaurant on Mirza Ghalib Street (near corner of Marquis Street) is good, authentic, clean (for India) and cheap.

Dawat - Rock bottom Chinese / Indian street restaurant is cheap, good, but a bit grubbier - we never got sick from it. Its in the street running north of Marquis street the other side of Mirza Ghalib.

Malgudi Junction - A really good, spotlessly clean modern budget restaurant / cafe on Abanindranath Tagore Sarani (off Sarani Mother Teresa). It serves superb Dosa (thin savoury pancake with various delicious fillings) and various other south Indian dishes. The Kesari Falluja (a cross between a shake and a sundae made with almond milk, jelly, ice cream, cashew nuts, saffron vermicelli, guava etc) is to die for. A meal for two will cost about 300Rp.

Chaat in Kolkata
Next to Malgudi Jn and sharing owner, staff and kitchen. Same qualities but focusing on Bengali dishes.

The Street
17 Park Street
Basically a trendy deli with Pancakes, waffles, toasted sandwiches, great cakes etc. Not cheap for India but worth it for those in need. Popular with local ex-pats. 150Rp for a blueberry pancake.
For those longing for Europen / USA etc home.

Kusam Kebabs & Rolls
Budget option just up from 'The Street' (tucked around a corner behind gates).
Thick savoury pancake / porata rolls with various fillings. Delicious and pretty safe. 20-50Rp.

Flurrys
Park Street (opposite Kusum)
A confectionary delight. 5 generations old business. Superb cakes, also snacks - continental lunch, dinner and breakfast staples (burger and chips 400Rp, Chicken fillet with rice 450Rp, Spagetti Neapolitan 350Rp etc). More for the atmosphere than anything else. Good place for a special meeting etc.

There are lots of bars on Park Street and a few of the cafes in Sudder Street / Mirza Ghalib serve beer etc suruptitiously without a license at around 100Rp for a Kingfisher beer.

Partying?

There are plenty of clubs and bars along Park Street, Russell Street (off the middle of Park Street) and Sarani Mother Teresa. Indians know how to party but can get rather juvenile (the guys) when they consume alcohol (most Indians don't drink).

Internet

Lots of these around but the best we found was Netfreaks in Sudder Street (half way down). 20Rp per hour. Pretty efficient.

What should you do?

There is plenty to see in central Kolkata just by walking around. In addition we would recommend:

The Indian Museum. The biggest and probably the best cultural museum in all Asia. It has obvious colonial origins and one could easily belive they were in London. An impressive building regardless of its interesting collections inside. 150Rp entry is a bargain really. Alow around half a day.

Victoria Park. This is known as the Lungs of Kolkata, for obvious reasons. Kolkata is traffic clogged like most Indian cities and this is a big park. Very tranquil for those feeling stressed out by India. Great for a picknic. Close to Indian Museum.

Plenty of trips outside Kolkata available at the many travel agents.

Getting there and away?

The airport is 25km from the centre. There is no metro. Buses are possible but impractical. Taxis are plentiful and pretty cheap (fare depends widely on time of day).
Cheap flights to other asian locations are easy to arrange at travel agents in Calcutta - recommend Bengal Travel in Sudder Street. Just a counter but quick, honest, cheap, efficient and friendly in our experience.  

Jet Airways (Air India Express) have cheap flights to major locations and domestic flights.

Getting around Kolkata
Gertting around the centre is easy. Walking to most central locations is a good way to see more of real life but it can get tiring. Kolkata still has rickshaws pulled by (skinny) men. The government has tried to 'phase them out' as an embarrasment but they are still everywhere. Ambassador taxis (copies of Morris Oxford from 1940s England, still made in India by Hindustan Motor Company) abound also and are pretty cheap (though they more easily get stuck in jams).

Language

People here speak Bengali or Hindi but most speak English (or their own brand of it). Language rarely presents a problem in Indian cities. The people are friendly and eager to communicate so they will make the effort.

Safety & Security

In India one has to adopt a different attitude to safety. 14 passengers in an auto-rickshaw designed for 3 is not uncommon and the police take no notice. Dual carriageways and one-way streets are an indication of traffic flow not a rule. This lackadasical attitude extends to security. You will see metal detectors at entrances to stations which people simply walk around. However, to keep things in proportion, it is unlikely anything will happen to you. Keep your wits about you but don't expect things to work like the west.

Theft can be a problem but no more than in any western city and most Indians are honest. Don't tempt them by flashing large wads of cash or expensive jewelery. Generally though we have found it safer in this respect than other Asian countries.

Begging



Kolkata seems to be one of the worst cities in India for begging. The government's request for tourists not to give money to beggars should be heeded. They know that if poor Indians see that they can make a living from begging then there will be more and more beggars. Donate money to a street children charity or something, but say no to beggars and pressure for tips in restaurants etc where they have not been earned. Otherwise we will see raging inflation in India which will harm the poor most.

Summary

In summary, Kolkata is a great, inexpensive place to spend some time - either as part of a long tour or for a short holiday. Take some time to adjust to the local life and don't try to see too much in a short trip. Don't be afraid of street restaurants or grubby back streets. Talk to the locals, they will not harm you, ask you to pay for their sister's operation or grab your handbag / camera. Kolkata rewards the adventurous but sensible travellers keep their wits about them.

Have a great trip and write up some recommendations etc on Bugbitten so that others can benefit form your discoveries.

Mark Swain