Latvia sits between Lithuania and Estonia, often overlooked for its louder neighbours. Riga is the main draw—a city of competing histories where Art Nouveau mansions face brutalist flats. The countryside is genuine: forests, wetlands, and villages where locals still speak Latvian without tourists listening.
Visitor numbers stay low, which means fewer queues and cheaper beer. Summer is short and bright; winter is dark but atmospheric. Most travellers pass through on a Baltic run, but those who stop find a country less polished and more honest than its neighbours.
Expect Soviet-era infrastructure mixed with EU money, local pride in small things, and food that leans heavy on rye, potatoes, and whatever could survive a long winter. English works in Riga; outside it, you'll need patience or a phrasebook.
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