Cévennes National Park
Languedoc, Francenature
Few national parks in France carry the quiet drama of the Cévennes. Stretching across granite plateaus, deep river gorges, and forested ridgelines in the heart of Languedoc, this is a landscape that feels genuinely untamed — and unlike the manicured trails of the Écrins or the Pyrenees, it rewards slow, patient travel rather than peak-bagging.
The GR70, better known as the Stevenson Trail, is the park's most celebrated route, following the path Robert Louis Stevenson walked with his donkey Modestine in 1878. The 272-kilometre trail runs from Le Puy-en-Velay to Saint-Jean-du-Gard, passing through chestnut forests so dense and old they feel almost primordial in autumn. The chestnuts here aren't just scenery — they're cultural history, once the staple food of the Cévenol people, and you'll find them roasted, preserved, and pressed into every local menu. Above the tree line, the open causses — limestone plateaus swept by wind — offer a completely different atmosphere, stark and luminous under a wide sky.
Wildlife has been quietly returning here for decades. Wolves recolonised the park from Italy in the 1990s and, while a sighting is rare and never guaranteed, the knowledge that they're out there adds a certain electricity to a dawn walk. Griffon vultures circle the gorges of the Tarn, red deer move through the valley floors, and the rivers hold wild brown trout.
The park headquarters sits in Florac Trois Rivières, easily reached by bus from Mende or Alès. Entry to the park is free, though camping requires booking in advance during summer. Bring proper waterproofs, as the Cévennes catch Atlantic weather systems year-round — late spring and early October offer the best combination of colour, cool temperatures, and manageable crowds.
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