Mana Pools National Park

Mana Pools sits in a remote bend of the Zambezi Valley, and from the moment you arrive the scale of the place hits you hard. The floodplain stretches wide and dry in the cooler months, broken by oxbow pools — Long Pool and Chine Pool being the most reliable for wildlife — where elephant, buffalo and hippo gather in extraordinary concentrations.

The light here has a particular quality, warm and golden against the albida trees whose dropped seed pods draw animals almost continuously throughout the day.

What separates Mana Pools from parks like Hwange is the freedom it offers on foot. Walking safaris are genuinely unescorted for experienced bush travellers with the appropriate permit, which is unusual in southern Africa, and that sense of moving through the landscape on equal terms with everything else living in it is something you don't quickly forget.

Wild dog sightings are reasonably reliable between August and November when packs den in the area, and lion and leopard are present though never guaranteed. The canoe trails along the Zambezi are exceptional — paddling past pods of hippo and watching elephant wade mid-river is one of those experiences that stays with you long after the sunburn fades.

Access is via Harare or Kariba, with the road from Kariba to Marongora gate being the most commonly used approach, though a four-wheel-drive is essential once you're inside the park. Accommodation ranges from the established Nyamepi campsite to private fly-in camps along the river. Parks fees apply and should be confirmed in advance through Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority.

Go between August and October for peak wildlife concentrations, but carry serious sun protection and at least four litres of water per person per day.