Route des Grandes Alpes

Nice to Geneva, Franceactivities

The Route des Grandes Alpes is, quite simply, the most demanding and rewarding ride I have done on a bicycle. Starting from the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, you immediately understand you are not easing into anything — the road begins climbing within thirty kilometres, and it barely stops for the next 700 km until you roll into Geneva with legs that have earned every metre of that descent to the lake. Seventeen passes, including Vars, Izoard, Galibier, and Iseran, pile up roughly 17,000 metres of total elevation gain across ten to fifteen riding days, depending on your fitness and how long you linger over fromage and vin rouge in the valley villages. The surface is sealed tarmac throughout and generally in good condition, though you will find cracked patches after harsh winters on the higher cols — narrow tyres under 28mm will make you wince. Most of the route shares mountain roads with traffic, though summer weekends on popular cols attract more camper vans than cars. Riding north to south is arguably more scenic coming out of Geneva, but riding south to north — Nice to Geneva — means you finish on familiar cycling culture and the route flows logically from Mediterranean warmth into Alpine cool. Accommodation is manageable using gîtes d'étape and small hotels in most valley towns; book ahead in July and August. Resupply is realistic every thirty to fifty kilometres in the lower sections but can stretch thin above 2,000 metres, so carry extra food and two full water bottles over the big passes. Bike hire in Nice or Geneva for a journey this demanding is not realistic — bring or hire a well-fitted touring or gravel bike before you start. Ride it in June or early September when the cols are open but the summer crowds have thinned; winter closures make spring and late autumn non-starters.

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