Réserve spéciale d’Ankarana

Ankarana feels like the earth cracked open and forgot to close. This compact but extraordinary reserve in northern Madagascar is dominated by a vast plateau of razor-sharp limestone pinnacles — the tsingy — whose silver-grey spires catch the light in ways that make the landscape look almost alien.

Threading between them are narrow corridors, collapsed canyon floors draped in dry deciduous forest, and an extensive network of underground caves that hide rivers, crocodiles, and cathedral-sized chambers you genuinely won't forget.

What sets Ankarana apart from the better-known Tsingy de Bemaraha in the west is its accessibility and its wildlife density. Crowned lemurs — rufous-capped and full of personality — are frequently spotted at close range along the main forest trails, particularly in the early morning. Sanford's brown lemurs are equally common, and if you linger near the cave entrances at dusk, you'll witness enormous bat emergences that darken the sky.

The birdlife is excellent too, with crested couas and Madagascar sparrowhawks moving through the canopy overhead.

The reserve sits roughly 108 kilometres south of Antsiranana (Diego Suarez), the main gateway town. Taxi-brousse connections run to the town of Mahamasina, from where guides and park entry can be arranged. A permit through Madagascar National Parks is required and costs around 25,000 ariary per day; a local guide is compulsory and genuinely worthwhile.

The tsingy circuits involve scrambling, ladders, and uneven rock surfaces, so sturdy closed-toe shoes are essential. Long sleeves also help — the limestone edges are unforgiving.

Come between April and November to avoid the heavy rains, and bring more water than you think you need.