Kylie Phaup-Stephens's Travel Journal
Kylie Phaup-Stephens's travel homepagekyles Travel Webpagekyles Travel Blogskyles Travel Recommendationkyles Passportkyles Guestbookkyles Travel Mates

Jun 05, 2010

Across The Water....Indo To AUSTRALIA!

Send me a message or share this blog with your friends -
I finally found my elusive boat....or rather my elusive boat that I had oh so painfully been searching for......found me.
And what do you know? It just turned out to be a flash superyacht!
So I hear you did you finally manage it Kyles?

Well after 4 months of desperate searching and I truly reckon over 400 emails later (to yacht clubs, cargo ships, harbour masters, sailing rallies, cruise liners, yachties, boat can pretty much name it!) at the point where I was actually really close to giving up and booking that flight to's still quite surreal to think that the boat found me.  

There is a website called
How it works is you create a profile and look for a boat, boats create profiles and look for crew. If you find a match you then need to pay something like 60 quid to exchange contact details. Or in my case, I didn't have 60 quid so I sneakily just left enough hints on my profile about who I was and what I was doing that any potential boat with half a brain could track me down and contact me via the awesome world that is the web.

Well corr worked!

Having given up on finding a boat in Indonesia, and knowing I was there at the wrong time of year (the Trade Winds were still blowing the wrong way meaning boats do not head South until much later in the year)...I was giving up on Indonesia and moving on.

My journey had taken on an accidental military theme. I'd left from London on Anzac Day 2009. The highlight of my entire ride to date was stopping in at the Kiwi Base in Bamian, Afghanistan and spending some time learning about New Zealands operation in this amazing troubled country.
It was always my aim to make it to East Timor for Anzac Day, April 25 2010.

Way back when I started my friends back in London created a support group for me on facebook called 'On Ya Bike Kyles'. Between that and my blog I try and keep it updated. I know I don't check it as often as I should...... but I do try.

I remember sitting down in an internet cafe in a town (appropriately named) 'Ende' on the island of Flores.

Well I checked 'On Ya Bike Kyles' and nearly fell off my seat. There was a message for all to see written on my wall... 'Hi Kylie, are you still looking for a lift to Australia? We're in Bali and would love to have you as crew'.  

There is a God!

Of course I emailed back straight away!

The superyacht 'Giriz II' had been in Bali, Indonesia for 8 months undergoing a refit. Why Indo? Well cos labour and materials are cheap. A whole lot cheaper than Oz that's for sure. Giriz II was owned by an Australian billionaire who spent a total of about 6 weeks a year on the boat...nice for some huh?!

The boat was to complete it's refit and then head to the Whitsundays in Australia for the school holidays for the owners teenage kids 'to play on'.....yip you read right.

So after ANZAC Day with the ISF in Dili, East Timor, I retraced my steps, about faced and went BACK to Bali.

I managed to get the once a month Pelni (Indonesian Shipping Lines) boat that was to take 3 days (reality was it actually took 5). Interesting voyage would be an understatement (probably deserves a blog of it's own - watch this space).
Rats, cockroaches, trash, no privacy, and free food in the way of rice and fish heads....yummmmm. Where are you Golden Arches when I really need you?
First night on the Pelni boat I slept on deck and woke up to a group of men standing around me, staring at me. The second  night I slept in a life boat. The third night I slept in the crows nest (true!) On the fourth night I finally befriended the crew and was allowed to sleep on the bridge....praise be!

Late afternoon Day 5 the Pelni boat delivered me nicely into Benoa Harbour, Bali Marina.

Let the fun begin!

Or not.

Let me just say that when you live in a small enclosed space with very few people, crew dynamics are important.
I consider myself one of the easiest people in the world to get on with! I'm considerate, friendly, well mannered.

It all started out well. Six of us.
It ended badly. With four. I got kicked off the boat in Cairns.

I can laugh about it now but at the time I was devasted!

The Captain (Australian). His Fiancee (French). Robin and Erika (Scottish), fellow cyclists I had met a few months back in Java who have also cycled from the UK. And Spacey, another Australian guy who was an experienced sailor - and me.

I lived with the Captain and his Fiancee on the boat for a good 6 weeks in Bali before we set sail. We got on well. Tensions were a bit strained at times as the Indonesian workers went overschedule by not days....but weeks. We had a deadline to meet - we had to get to Oz for school holidays but we couldn't leave until the work was finished!

Giriz II was 46 years old, steel hull, a motor sail. The sails were just for show really! She was insured for 17 million euros. Frank Sinatra has even been on board....along with Robert to prove it!

By the time the Indo workers had finished we were in a hell of a hurry.....the Captain wasn't even sure we would make it to Oz in time.

But June 6, we set sail. The boat hadn't been out in a long time. Time to see what she was capable of!

Diary entry of June 6 .....
'Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn't do, than by the things that you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the Trade Winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover'  - (Mark Twain).

Well folks this day has finally come and my dream continues...bowlines are off and heading to AUSTRALIA!
Bon Voyage Indonesia (& Timor Leste)!

17 June 2010....Kylie has this Thursday, after 13 green days at sea arrived in Thursday Island....AUSTRALIA

It was certainly an experience. It wasn't the adventure I was hoping for. I had succeeded where other 'overlanders' had stumbled.
I really wish I'd learnt more.

I can't even begin to describe the sequence of events that led to me getting off in Cairns but lets just say the Captains Fiancee had some serious insecurities and for her to feel better about herself meant simply I had to go! Gutted.

Some things just aren't meant to be.........

Now my search starts again....I just need to find a boat to get me across the ditch .....HOME to the Land of the Long White Cloud.

My finish line.

New Zealand.

I'll be home for'll see!

Leaving Benoa Harbour.....home for the last month at
The workers
Giriz II, 90ft steel
Leaving Benoa Harbour.....home for the last month at leastThe workers shoes!Giriz II, 90ft steel ketch
Arriving at Bali Marina, the last time my bike 'Tankini' will be ridden for a while.Photo courtesy of Robin &
Arriving at Bali Marina, the last time my bike 'Tankini' will be ridden for a while.Photo courtesy of Robin & Erika [link][/link]
Giriz II, Bali
Registered in Falmouth,
Giriz II, Bali MarinaRegistered in Falmouth, UK
Bow of Giriz
Out the back
Scrubbing my panniers to ensure they meet Australian Customs standards! Photo courtesy of Robin &
Bow of Giriz IIOut the back deckScrubbing my panniers to ensure they meet Australian Customs standards! Photo courtesy of Robin & Erika [link][/link]
A flat sea! Shame it wasn't like this on our sailing to
Scrubbing my panniers ready for Australian Customs!
Photo courtesy of Robin &
How blue is that
A flat sea! Shame it wasn't like this on our sailing to OzScrubbing my panniers ready for Australian Customs! Photo courtesy of Robin & Erika [link][/link]How blue is that sky?!
Robin enjoying some
Balinese ceremony for Giriz II.Photo courtesy of Robin &
Looking out over the Arufure Sea towards an active volcanoe - one of many in
Robin enjoying some sunBalinese ceremony for Giriz II.Photo courtesy of Robin & Erika [link][/link]Looking out over the Arufure Sea towards an active volcanoe - one of many in Indonesia!
Another spectacular Indo
Sunrise on another beautiful
Day one, at sea, leaving Bali behind (Erika and
Another spectacular Indo sunsetSunrise on another beautiful day...Day one, at sea, leaving Bali behind (Erika and Kyles)

Page 1 2 3 4 Next >

This travel blog has been viewed 7590 times